Chișinău.

At first glance the city seems modest — but give it a day and you start noticing the leafy boulevards, Soviet mosaics, wine bars and the layers of history tucked between concrete blocks and 19th-century villas. It's not a city of grand landmarks; its charm is in the details. Written by locals who really know this city.

• › 5 maps and 3 self-guided itineraries, so you can explore with confidence and context
• › Every landmark worth your time — the mosaics, museums and Brutalist gems, with honest “what to skip” picks
• › Restaurants, coffeeshops and bars loved by locals, and what to order in each
• › Expert local advice on the best wineries to visit for a day trip
• › Hands-on experiences — tile-painting, pottery, opera nights and immersive art
• › Practicalities done for you — getting around, opening hours, real budgets, when to go and more